Kantajew Temple
The finest terracotta temple in Bangladesh.
Kaharole, Dinajpur district, Rangpur Division
Maharaja Pran Nath of Dinajpur began this temple to Krishna in 1704 and his son Ramnath finished it in 1752. It stands three storeys high on a raised stone plinth beside the Dhepa river at Kantanagar, and every outer wall is covered, from the ground to the top, in small moulded terracotta plaques. It was built with nine spires; the earthquake of 1897 brought them all down, which is why the roof is flat today. This is the sight people come to Dinajpur for, so give it unhurried time.
What to see
The terracotta walls
The plaques tell stories from the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the life of Krishna, and beside them show the life of the time: hunts, boats, processions, soldiers and musicians. Each plaque is different, so pick one wall and read it slowly rather than glancing at all four.
The arched verandas
Each side of the ground floor opens through cusped arches onto a veranda that runs round the shrine. Stand inside one and look back out through the arches; the carving on the pillars is as fine as on the walls.
The shrine
The temple is still in worship, with the images of Radha and Krishna in the inner room. Ask before going close or taking a photo there.
The whole temple from the courtyard
From the corners of the walled courtyard you see how the three storeys step back one above the other. This is where the photograph of the whole building is taken.
How to go round
Start at a corner of the courtyard for the whole view, then go once round the outside, reading the plaques from the bottom rows upward. Step up onto the plinth and walk the veranda next, and finish at the shrine. Allow 45 minutes to an hour, more if the carving holds you.
Make the most of it
- Come early in the morning or late in the afternoon: the low sun throws the plaques into relief, and there are fewer people.
- Go on to Nayabad Mosque, about 1.5 km away, said to have been built by the craftsmen who worked on this temple.
- The Rash Mela, a fair of about a month, begins here at the full moon of Kartik, usually in November. It is the liveliest time and the most crowded.
What it costs
Free
Getting there
North of Dinajpur town on the highway to Thakurgaon; get down at Kantanagar and cross the Dhepa river to the temple. Buses towards Thakurgaon and Panchagarh pass the turning, or reserve an auto-rickshaw or CNG from town.
Good to know
- Take your shoes off before stepping onto the plinth, and do not touch the plaques.
How to get to Dinajpur from Dhaka
- By bus
- From Gabtoli or Kallyanpur
- By train
- Ekota, Drutojan or Panchagarh Express from Kamalapur
- By air
- Fly to Saidpur and go on by road
Where to stay
Parjatan Motel, Dinajpur